Showing posts with label australia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label australia. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

lucky

As we headed out last night to get some Penang street food for dinner, we got caught in a torrential downpour. We had brought an umbrella and I had a raincoat, so only our shoes got soaked, and we did get our yummy food (laksa, hokkien mee, fried noodles, and shaved ice) but it was annoying nonetheless.

When we got back, we heard about the massive dust storms in Sydney that had the airport closed to international flights:


It's scary to think we were just there...I guess we should really count ourselves lucky!

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

last thoughts about Australia

Having left Australia, I wanted to mention a few final things that we noticed during our two weeks there...

Tipping is not the custom. In fact, it's discouraged. Many times I felt really strange leaving a restaurant or a hotel room or a taxi without tipping, but as far as I could tell, no one else ever left a tip either. We did end up leaving a small tip at Tetsuya's, but we had had extremely good service there.

All the outlets in all the hotels that we stayed at had on/off switches. I guess it's to save electricity? At first I thought it was inconvenient but I soon got used to it.

All the toilets (in the hotels, restaurants, airports, beaches, and other public places) had half and full flush buttons, even in the outback. Generally speaking I was pleasantly surprised by the level of environmental concern in Australia.

Several of our hotels offered "luggage collection service" where you tell the front desk what time you want the bell desk to pick up your luggage on the check-out day, and then you can just leave. The luggage will magically show up in the lobby at the later time that you specify. Did I mention there's no tipping?

All of our hotels provided stamps, and charged them to our bill. So simple, yet so useful.

Many restaurants charged for small things such as sauces (tomato sauce, tartar sauce, cocktail sauce) and bread. I was actually kind of happy about this, despite having to figure out beforehand how much sauce I would need for one order of fries. Lots of times when I get fast food in the US they just give you a big handful of sauce and it either sits in your fridge for forever, or you end up wasting it.

When you get your bill in a restaurant, most of the time there will be a business card or two tucked in there. I like to collect business cards because I'm forgetful (about where I've been), so this was great for me; it prevented me from having to make the effort to get one myself.

It seems like they're all good things, so I'll mention one bad (or at least neutral) one. There is this horribly confusing traffic rule in Melbourne called the "hook turn":


Basically, at major intersections, in order to turn right, you have to pull into the far left lane, go into the intersection, and then stop. You wait until the light changes, and then you complete your turn. I'm not sure what the rationale is, but more than once while riding in a cab or bus I had a "WTF is he DOING??" type of moment. (When trying to picture this, remember that Australians drive on the other side of the road.)

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Melbourne's Royal Botanical Gardens

D and I spent some time walking around Melbourne's Royal Botanical Gardens yesterday, and I took a whole bunch of photos...












Saturday, September 12, 2009

Australian wildlife

One of the great things about visiting Australia is all the wildlife that you get to see. Here are some of the coolest creatures we've seen and met during the past two weeks...

Wild horses aka "brumbies" in the outback:


Parenti lizard, at Palm Valley:


Thorny devil lizard, on the road between Palm Valley and Kings Canyon (roadkill, but in surprisingly good shape):


Wild camels, between Kings Canyon and Uluru:


Sergeant Major fish (among many others), at the Great Barrier Reef:


I'm not sure what kind of parrots these are, but they were all over the place at our hotel in Port Douglas:


Two snakes, spotted while cruising in the Daintree rainforest:


Wallaby, at the Koala Conservation Centre on Phillip Island:


Koala with joey, at the Koala Conservation Centre:



Wombat, at Warrook Farm, between Melbourne and Phillip Island:


Kangaroos, at Warrook Farm:



We also saw some kangaroos in the wild; the same grey ones while at the Blue Mountains (outside of Sydney), and two red kangaroos just outside of Alice Springs which were too quick for my camera reflexes.

There was a dingo appearance at Ayers Rock Resort (not very exciting, looked like a dog, and again, ran away before I could get my camera).

Of course, there were many many penguins at Phillip Island, but as photography was not allowed there, I don't have any photos of those either. They were super cute, though; very tiny (less than 12 inches tall), usually clustered together in small groups, and quite noisy while greeting and preening each other.

Wednesday, September 09, 2009

Aussie-speak

D and I have been quite amused by all of the Aussie-speak over the past couple of weeks. Some of our favorites:

"head luggage" - When the Qantas rep was telling us that our bags were overweight, she suggested we put more stuff in our "head luggage" since it wouldn't be weighed. So helpful!

"chilly water" - Australians don't drink cold water or iced water, they drink "chilly water".

"gorgeous" - Australians apply this adjective to food quite often, to mean delicious or tasty. I tend to think of it as a visual descriptor, but I guess they don't.

"cheers" and "that's okay" - D and I often say "thanks" and get a "that's okay" in return. Apparently it's the equivalent of our "you're welcome" or "no problem". We also noticed other people don't say "thanks" at all; they say "cheers".

"fuzzy wuzzy angels" - This one came up when our guide was explaining some history to us at Kings Canyon. Apparently during World War II, when ANZAC soldiers were injured and had to be smuggled back through Japanese enemy lines, they would be guided by Papua New Guineans. The soldiers' nickname for these guides was "fuzzy wuzzy angels", because their hair was fuzzy, and they were like guiding angels.

"silly o'clock" - On the day before our early morning Uluru tour, our guide said goodbye to us by saying she would pick us up the next day at "silly o'clock", meaning really really early. I don't know if this is a common term or just her being funny.

"wet bum" - D was very amused every time our snorkelling guides told us not to sit down with "wet bums" on our boat.

"aces" - We'd heard this one before, but it's used much more frequently here.

fine dining in Sydney

Quay

Quay is located at the "Overseas Passenger Terminal" between the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. It has an unbeatable location, and is very pretty and modern inside.

We were seated at what appeared to be one of the best tables, in a small sub-room jutting out into the harbour. However, our server's attitude was a bit off-putting; throughout the evening she was overly snarky. For instance, when I asked for regular coffee, she pointed out that there was no such thing, only "real coffee" drinks like espresso.

The food was generally quite good, but there were one or two (of of eight) courses that I was not that impressed with. My experience was not improved by the extremely slow pacing of the meal, especially as I was a bit sleepy to begin with.

Anyway, onto the food!

I ordered a "Quay Butterfly" cocktail which had limoncello and butterscotch schnapps in it. That sounds terrible but it was sweet and yummy.



The first course was a very cute (and delicious) amuse; it contained two kinds of raw fish (hamachi and I think tai?) with fish eggs (not sure what kind but they were very good) and horseradish cream:



My only possible complaint would be that the horseradish flavor was not sharp enough, but I like my horseradish quite strong.

Next up was another raw fish dish; bluefin toro with six tiny accompaniments:



One was a bubble of soy sauce-like liquid, another was a smudge of edible silver, and a third was caviar. I've forgotten what the remaining three were, so they must have been less interesting. The fish was good but I only liked maybe half of the accompaniments.

Then, we were served a confit of squid and octopus, in a squid consomme:



This dish tasted fine, but wasn't that interesting (both to look at, and to taste).

I liked the next dish but D did not. It came with crispy pork belly, abalone, and silken tofu w/ mushrooms. I think I just like tofu better than he does:



Neither of us were very happy with the next course; quail with chestnuts, walnuts, mushrooms, truffle custard, and bitter chocolate pudding:



All of the components tasted great by themselves, but the dish did not seem to come together well as a whole. I enjoyed the truffle custard by itself, but the bitter chocolate pudding especially tended to drown out nearly all of the other flavors. Ironically I think this is one of their signature dishes.

Next was a confit of lamb with pinenuts, artichoke, sunflower seeds, rosemary, hops, and okra shoots. It was fine but nothing to write home about:



There were two desserts; the first contained jackfruit shaved ice and custard apple ice cream:



I thought the presentation was nice and I enjoyed the tropical fruit flavor. It worked well as a palate cleanser, too.

The second dessert was perhaps my favorite course of the evening. It was a beautifully arranged plate of raspberries, violets (again, edible), almonds, and vanilla cream, with a sugar "crisp" of sorts:



It tasted as good as it looks. Nuff said.

Finally, we were served tea and coffee (or espresso, rather) and petit fours; chocolate wrapped caramel (yummy) and some kind of nutty macaroon:



To sum up, the food was quite good, the service was so-so, and the views were incredible. I'm glad we went, but would not recommend unconditionally.

Tetsuya's

Tetsuya's was something of a different experience. The service was impeccable; our water was always full (and I drink even more water than usual when travelling), my napkin was always folded, and most impressively, the pace was properly adjusted with no prompting when it became clear that we were faster than the average diners. I felt the food was more consistently excellent, as well.

We started with a mushroom and chestnut soup, which had a strong Japanese flavor:



It was simple but delicious. D thought it may have been a bit too simple, though.

The soup was followed by a "softly smoked" salmon, topped with a mostly-cooked egg yolk covered in caviar, encircled by a ring of cream:



It's unfortunate that they smoked the salmon, because otherwise I might have liked this dish very much. As it was, I ate nearly half of it anyway.

Next was a savory custard with crab and leek:



It was basically like a fancy chawan mushi. I liked it, but again, perhaps slightly too simple.

We were then served a raw shrimp salad with cilantro. There were dabs of oil on the plate, but I've forgotten what they were:



I liked this fine with the creamy sauce, but D liked it better without.

The next course was Tetsuya's signature ocean trout, with a black sesame crust, and a salad of konbu, apple, and daikon:



I was surprised by the pink color of the trout, but apparently it was a special Tasmanian trout. Again, too bad they cooked it...I kept eating it for the sesame crust (delicious) but eventually gave the rest to D. I ate all of the salad, though.

This was followed by the least impressive course, a terrine of crab wrapped in seaweed, with avocado sauce:



I thought that the crab texture was destroyed by making it into a terrine; instead of being pleasantly chewy, it had a texture similar to kamaboko (fishcake), which made it too spongy for my taste.

I didn't try this barramundi, but D liked it second best to the trout of all the courses that evening:



I did eat the spatchcock (young chicken) with edamame and braised daikon. The waiter said it was served with "bread sauce", but I'm not sure what that is or what it's supposed to taste like:



The chicken was tender and fairly flavorful. However, it paled in comparison to the next course, which was a wagyu beef, served on a mushroom, topped with a soy sauce-flavored jelly. It came with wasabi, lime, and sea salt, and the waiter recommended we try them each with the meat:



I loved this dish; it was my favorite overall. I ended up using generous dabs of all three condiments and they made the beef taste amazing.

At this point we started with the desserts. First up was a spiced pear sorbet with orange jelly, and a custard apple chai "bavarois". We were meant to use the spoon to mix up the chai before drinking it:



It was interesting in concept, but I wouldn't say I was super impressed with the taste; it was almost bland. I like my tea flavors very tea-ish.

The second dessert was much better; it was billed as a "strawberry shortcake" with vanilla bean ice cream, but was entirely liquid:



The lower layer had a cake-y flavor but had a grainy texture like applesauce. It was really creative, and happily, it was delicious too.

The last dessert was a chocolate "chiboust" with lemon curd and coffee marshmallow:



The flavors sounded strange together but actually went well, although the lemon taste was quite weak. I preferred the strawberry shortcake, myself.

The petit fours were quite good; I especially liked the green tea marshmallow, and the buttery coffee-flavored bite-sized cake wasn't half bad either. The macaroon was good, but French macaroons are increasingly common these days:



Overall, I liked Tetsuya's significantly better than Quay. If I return to Sydney (if I have enough lead time) I'll probably try to secure another reservation at Tetsuya's, but I don't think I will go to Quay again, at least not before I've tried some of Sydney's other fine restaurants.

 

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